Current Cosmetic Science - Volume 2, Issue 1, 2023

Some people may experience allergic responses like skin irritation and rashes due to the seductive aroma of your attractive cosmetic products. The fragrance in your cosmetic items can also lead to serious allergies like asthma and headaches, which may deter customers from purchasing your cosmetics. The development of fragrances is a crucial component of cosmetic formulation because it blends an aesthetic vision with knowledge of the chemistries and dynamics of the scent materials.

When launching a cosmetics company and having a product ready to sell, it is crucial to take into account a number of elements, including the potency of the scent, the product's stability in the presence of heat and light, the compatibility of the ingredients, and the effects of the packaging. While certain compounds used in fragrances quickly disappear from the skin, others cling to it for longer. In order to accomplish the intended outcome and produce a product that is attractive to the eye, it is crucial for these qualities to interact over time. Buyer psychology is impacted by fragrance in cosmetic products, which may influence whether or not a consumer decides to purchase it.

The study utilized a comprehensive review of existing literature, market research, and industry insights to gather information on fragrance selection for cosmetics.

The results of the study indicate that choosing the best fragrance for cosmetics involves considering several key factors. Firstly, understanding the specific product type is crucial, as different cosmetics require different types of fragrances to match their purpose and intended use. Secondly, considering the target audience's preferences is essential, as different demographics have varying fragrance preferences. Thirdly, aligning the fragrance with the brand identity is important to create a cohesive and consistent product experience.

In conclusion, selecting the best fragrance for cosmetics requires a thoughtful and strategic approach. By considering the product type, target audience, brand identity, and market trends, cosmetics manufacturers can make informed decisions that enhance the overall product experience and customer satisfaction.

In several countries, still there is no standardized regulation on the use of claims. However, there are some guideline materials and content that are used by regulatory agencies.

The goal of this manuscript is to provide an approach to the understanding of the thematic of cosmetic claims to dermatologists and general practice physicians. The objective is to discuss the definition, regulatory framework and tips to help them on how to use this knowledge to guarantee an assertive indication.

Knowing the appropriate tests for the substantiation of claims allows the physician to indicate the most appropriate dermocosmetic for the skin condition of each patient.

For a more critical and assertive indication or suggestion, it is recommended that the physician observe the product packaging and know how to understand and interpret the terms on the product label.

Recently, transferosomes have been discovered to have the potential for transdermal delivery. Curcumin is a bioactive molecule with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, but it has low water solubility and poor skin absorption. The biological response to damage caused by diverse stimuli is known as the inflammatory process. Cyclodextrins are cyclic (-1, 4)-linked oligosaccharides of -D-glucopyranose with a hydrophilic outer surface and a hydrophobic center cavity.

The aim of the study was to develop a curcumin-loaded transferosomal gel to improve the wound healing process. The study has focused on advancing the area of traditional medicine in the field of pharmaceutics by using curcumin in the form of transferosomes to enhance wound healing.

Firstly, curcumin was used to synthesize the transferosomes. Secondly, the transferosomes were converted into a transferosomal gel as an alternative for wound healing. Characterization and in vivo investigation were carried out on female Swiss mice.

Unpaired Student’s t-test was used to determine the statistical significance at p < 0.5 using UV exposure schedules. All values have been expressed as mean ± SEM calculated by ANOVA with a significant difference among means at p < 0.05.

The study has indicated curcumin to be successfully entrapped in transferosomes in order to formulate the gel with powerful wound healing properties.

Multiple moisturizing solutions with sodium hyaluronate, Withania sominifera, and niacinamide are commercially popular. Detailed clinical studies portraying their activity are not available.

This study aims to study the clinical efficacy of a phyto-bioactive cream in improving skin hydration and tone with 4 weeks of continuous usage.

We conducted a non-comparative, single-blind study on 50 Asian female volunteers with Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI for 28 days. Cosmetic acceptability and safety of the product were established via self-evaluation questionnaires. The ability of the topical formulation in maintaining skin tone, hydration, and firmness was determined by instrumental analysis and smoothness by dermatologist evaluation.

A total of 46 subjects completed the study. High levels of skin hydration were noted instantaneously (+61.11%) and post continuous use of the product. Significant reduction in the appearance of age/dark spots (ITA°), Δ ITA°= 37.49% and increase in skin lightness (L) by 2.66% compared to baseline was observed in 4 weeks. More than 80% of the subjects reported an increase in skin firmness and smoothness in 4 weeks of twice-a-day product usage.

Our study establishes the safety and acceptability of the phyto-bioactive cream. The efficiency of the combination of Withania somnifera extract, sodium hyaluronate, and niacinamide in improving skin hydration and tone has been proven.

Skin pigmentation is a complex process; thus, skin equivalent methodologies that can reproduce the main skin structures and pigmentation have been studied. To improve the skin equivalent model, bioprinting technology has emerged, allowing for the reproduction of the complex, functional, and personalized three-dimensional architecture of the skin.

Our aim was to develop a skin equivalent model and a pigmented skin equivalent model and compare the manually produced models with the bioprinted models.

The study was conducted using fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and melanocytes cell lines with a 3D cell culture technique, either through bioprinting or manual production. Additionally, the bleaching potential of the model was evaluated by applying kojic acid.

It was observed that the bioprinted skin equivalent model demonstrated similar cell architecture and gene expression compared to the manually produced model. A pigmented skin equivalent model was developed and also bioprinted. The pigmented bioprinted skin equivalent model exhibited similar pigmentation behavior and lightening potential as the manual model.

We have validated the use of bioprinting for reproducing skin equivalent model and cost-effective scaling of skin production.

The process of wound healing is a complicated series of organized biochemical and cellular phenomena that restore the integrity of the skin and subcutaneous tissue. A drug molecule can be transported to the site of action through a variety of carriers, including niosomes or non-ionic surfactant vesicles. They can trap medications that are both hydrophilic and hydrophobic. It has been demonstrated that curcumin has strong analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing qualities.

In the current study, an effort has been made to create a curcumin-loaded niosomal gel for efficient wound healing therapy. Utilizing non-ionic surfactants (Span 60, Span 20, Tween 20, and Tween 60) and cholesterol at various concentrations, a modified thin-film hydration process was used to create niosomal gels containing curcumin. Particle size, shape, entrapment effectiveness, deformability, and in vitro skin penetration were used to describe the vesicles. The 1% carbopol 940 gel was then made using the improved formulation. In wound-induced rats, the effectiveness of the in vivo wound healing was assessed.

The manufactured niosomes were discovered to be homogeneous in size and spherical in shape. According to the IR spectrum study, the medication and formulation additives did not interact. It was discovered that the niosomal gel (S-3) loaded with curcumin was not irritating to the skin. According to studies on in vivo wound healing, curcumin-loaded niosomal gel exhibited the highest percentage of wound contraction. Following 21 days of niosomal gel treatment, the histopathological evaluation found a noticeable improvement in the skin's histological architecture. Curcumin-loaded niosomal gel was easily made using the thin film hydration process.

The results of this study demonstrate the potential of niosomal gel as a cutting-edge therapeutic strategy for wound healing.

The aim of this study was to evaluate the brightening effects of a complex composed of Resorcinol, Arbutin, and Licorice root extract (RAL complex) in patients faced with skin spots compared to a potential hydroquinone compound.

Skin spots are defined as excessive accumulation of melanin pigment in different layers of the skin caused by extravagant sun exposure, pregnancy, and other hormonal and genetic factors. Therefore, it is necessary to use appropriate products to treat these types of spots.

To evaluate skin brightness after using the RAL complex, this study was designed in a double-blind randomized trial and the removal of melanin pigment and skin spots was evaluated by different methods.

In this study, the brightening cream formulated with actives comprising the RAL complex in 2.1% w/w concentration and a hydroquinone cream was applied in two groups of 20 women with a mean age of 48 years showing the severity scale 3 of skin pigmentation, separately. This study was conducted to evaluate the brightening effect of this complex compared to a hydroquinone compound after 4, 8, and, 12 weeks of application to the entire face.

The results showed the highest percentage of skin brightness 12 weeks after applying the cream, reported at 93% and 89% for RAL complex and hydroquinone compound, respectively. Skin pigmentation rate was measured before and after applying the RAL complex cream with a mexameter device. The highest amount of dark spot removal was seen after using this cream in different areas of the skin.

The results showed that the RAL complex was more effective than the hydroquinone compound in removing skin blemishes without any side effects compared to products containing hydroquinone.

Orange coloured tubular calyx of Nyctanthes arbor-tristis can be utilized as a substitute for saffron due to the presence of crocin, an apocarotenoid, which can act as a sunscreen agent. Petroselinic acid is reported to have a moisturizing effect on the skin.

To utilize the tubular calyx of Nyctanthes arbor- tristis as an economical source of crocin and Coriandrum sativum seed oil as a source of petroselinic acid for the development of a stable phytosomal gel formulation and to evaluate its sunscreen and moisturizing activities.

Phytosomes of standardized crocin-rich extract and petroselinic acid were prepared separately by lipid film hydration technique. The phytosomes were then incorporated into a gel base prepared from dehydroxanthan gum, and it was evaluated for in-vitro sunscreen activity by using Mansur’s equation. Moisturizing effect of the phytosomal gel was evaluated on 10 healthy female volunteers with their informed consent, and the water content of the stratum corneum was measured by using a Digital Moisture detector pen before and 5 hours later the application of the gel.

Mean initial moisture content of the skin was found to be 30.08%, which was significantly (P < 0.05) raised to 45.59% at the end of 5 hours. Sun Protection Factor was found to be 15.09 and with a Boot Star rating of 2.

Entrapping the phytoconstituents in vesicles increased stability, and the formulation was found to have moderate protection and a good moisturizing effect on the skin.

The movement of conscious consumption is growing rapidly. The idea of leaving behind synthetic products and substances that generate waste from their production to their final disposal grows and widens the gap between the old capitalist paradigm and the concept of naturism. It includes environmental awareness, taking care of our body, and the conscious choice of what we eat, wear, and use in daily life, including cosmetic products.

This study aimed to explore a new paradigm of formulation and consumption. A group of parabens was selected, and their replacement with preservatives approved for natural cosmetics was proposed. Some of the risks associated with the consumption of parabens in food, cosmetics, and medicines, were also examined. Moreover, the advantages and disadvantages of preservatives for the product and consumer were also discussed.

For data collection, publications in indexed journals were searched, with the keywords: parabens, endocrine disrupting chemicals, and skin conditions related to the use of parabens.

Recent studies have reported that by using parabens in skin products, we create an imbalance in the skin flora. This preservative decreases the defense capacity of our first immune line and causes disorders that lead to irritation, rosacea spots, oiliness, and sectorized peeling. Furthermore, parabens are exogenous substances that alter the functions of the endocrine system and can cause adverse health effects.

In Argentina, compounds from the paraben family are used by many brands as preservatives, which are dangerous to health and the environment. Therefore, a conscious, sustainable, biodegradable, and cruelty-free alternative is needed to replace parabens in cosmetics.

This research was conducted to make the option for chemical-based semisynthetic and synthetic hair dyes to overcome the problems with the use of synthetic dyes and the acceptance rate by the public. The work involves the use of some novel natural ingredients with novel combinations.

The herbal hair dye was prepared y using various natural agents reported to possess the desired properties. The plants were collected from the herbal garden of Dr. VedprakashPatil Pharmacy College, Aurangabad & authenticated by the Dept. of Pharmacognosy. All ingredients were passed through sieves and mixed thoroughly to get a homogenous mixture; the mixture was dissolved in water and applied to the hairs for the evaluation of various parameters such as organoleptic physicochemical, patch test & stability.

This Herbal hair dye prepared in the laboratory is made with all good quality materials. It was tested in the laboratory and was found to be very safe for the regular use of this herbal hair dye after several time intervals of time. All evaluation parameters were found to be within the limits as prescribed for the safe use of hair dye.

The prepared herbal hair dye neither shows any side effects nor skin infections. It nourishes the skin on the scalp and hair. This herbal hair dye also aids in dandruff treatment by removing excess oil from the scalp. If such herbal dye is used frequently or regularly, it will give a manageable, fizz-free colored hair benefiting human as well as the industry. The formulation is natural in origin with effective benefits compared to the marketed formulation and cost-effective.

As the process is simple, small scale cosmetic industry can make use of the technique.

Poor solubility of curcumin results in poor rate of absorption, rapid biotransformation as well as rapid rate of elimination. Due to this curcumin does not show better therapeutic effect through oral administration, to avoid poor rate of absorption, rapid biotransformation and topical drug delivery system plays a vital role.

The objective of the present work was the successful implementation of face-centered central composite design (FCCCD) to study various independent variables to develop an optimized formulation.

Carbopol 934 P and menthol were considered as independent variables and their impact was determined on dependent responses like drug content, viscosity, and percent drug release by developing topical gels using 3² central composite design. Thirteen curcumin loaded topical gels were prepared employing 3² CCD. Characterization of these formulations was done by drug content, viscosity, and percent drug release.

The effect of independent variable, i.e., the concentration of Carbopol 934P and menthol was determined over the dependent variables by developing a response surface methodology. Optimized batch was investigated employing design expert software by overlay plot developed by statistical software with drug content, viscosity, and percent drug release 99.34%, 82.10 cps, and 65.576% respectively. Optimized data was evaluated by formulating four validation check batches. Promising results were observed by comparing the predicted values with experimental values, which proves the validity of the optimized data.

Therefore, it can be concluded that the application of face-centered central composite design is a useful statistical tool to get the optimized formulation with the least manpower, material, and money.

Sericin is a hydrophilic and adhesive protein that provides structural integrity to the silkworm cocoon.

The study aimed to develop sericin isolated from Indian BV mulberry silk cocoons as a cosmetic raw material and study its sensory impact.

Sericin was isolated using high-temperature and high-pressure techniques without the use of chemicals. Native and hydrolyzed sericin were studied for suitability in cosmetic formulations. Lastly, their safety was established using a primary irritation patch test in twenty-four healthy volunteers, and the impact of sericin on skin care formulation was studied.

Both native and hydrolyzed sericin were studied for their application in personal care products. Native sericin was difficult to process due to its gelling behavior. Hydrolyzed sericin was readily formulated in skin lotion and was found to be stable for 3 months under accelerated conditions. Sericin and its formulations did not cause any skin irritation and were found to be well-tolerated. Formulation with 0.01% w/w hydrolyzed sericin was best accepted among the panelists.

The study establishes the use of sericin isolated from mulberry silkworms as a sensory enhancer for skin care applications.

Seed oils have been exploited for an array of purposes with their addition to dietary, cosmetics, or therapeutic products. The process of skin aging is a natural and complex phenomenon in living beings. Skin aging is classified into two independent processes, i.e., chronological aging and premature aging. Aging is observed as a loss of strength and elasticity of the skin, leading to wrinkles on the skin. It is due to a decrease in various components of the skin matrix, like elastin, collagen, and hyaluronic acid. Furthermore, aging is potentiated by excessive exposure to UV radiation (Photoaging) and can be prevented or reduced by using products that combat photoaging.

Anti-aging and antiwrinkle agents are in demand for maintaining skin tone. Seed oils composed of polyunsaturated fatty acids are traditionally used in cosmetic products as moisturizers and emollients, while palmitic acid and oleic acid are known for their penetration-enhancing effect. With the changing trend for extraction of oils like cold pressed methods, seed oils enriched with polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids, and phytosterols are good antioxidants and antimicrobials and therefore have an ever-growing demand for their usage in the treatment of skin diseases. In this review, an attempt will be made to brief the phytoconstituents present in various seed oils and their utilization against skin ailments. Furthermore, a mechanistic approach towards the benefit of oils in skin barrier repair, antiaging, and photo-aging with the help of extensive well-designed clinical trials carried out in the recent past is elaborated.

A literature search in the Scopus database, Pubmed, and Medline was carried out using the terminology “aging, photoaging, antioxidant, UV-protection, sunscreens, skin barrier repair, and fatty acids, formulations” in the study. Data were retrieved over the last twenty years.

The review summarises the mechanistic approach and beneficial application of seed oils for healthy and glowing skin. The oils obtained from olives, sesame, borage, grape seeds, and carrot seeds have multitargeted effects. However, the variation in pharmacological effect may vary based on geographically differing varieties, skin type, and person-to-person variation. The need to standardize the varieties for their phytoactive ingredients and the composition of formulation used for skin care can help utilize the seeds as a potential source of actives against skin diseases.

The potential of seed oils can be increased with appropriate analytical tools, validation protocols, and systematic experimental studies at preclinical and clinical trials for their application to skin care products.

This work aimed to determine whether the oxybenzone-loaded nanocapsule gel (NC gel) can reduce the degree of skin penetration and, thereby, the skin irritation caused by the drug.

Sunscreens must be retained on the uppermost skin surface, forming a protective film throughout the entire UV exposure period. Skin penetration and/or light-induced decomposition of sunscreens is undesirable as this would decrease the expected UV protection. The changes in colour and appearance of the sunscreen, as well as the possible increase in the phototoxicity and allergenic potential of sunscreen breakdown products, are also of concern.

Furthermore, exposure to UVB radiation leads to impairment in the stratum corneum and hence enhances the skin's penetration of sunscreen actives, leading to systemic absorption. Currently, available sunscreen agents are low-molecular-weight lipophilic molecules, which make them capable of penetrating the skin and being systemically absorbed.

Oxybenzone is an organic compound widely used in commercial sunscreen preparations. The low molecular weight and lipophilic nature of oxybenzone facilitate penetration through the stratum corneum, leading to irritation and allergic reactions.

Polymeric nanocapsules (NCs) have been developed to ensure a controlled release of pharmaceutical and cosmetic agents and/or exert a preventive effect against the harmful side effects induced by direct contact of tissues with high amounts of the drug. Hence, we hypothesised that encapsulating the oxybenzone polymeric nanocapsule system would reduce the irritation and its allergic potential upon topical application.

The current study aimed to develop a polymeric nanocapsule-based gel of oxybenzone and investigate its skin deposition by ex vivo permeation studies.

The polymeric nanocapsules were prepared by the solvent displacement method using a combination of Eudragit RSPO and Eudragit RLPO polymers. Further nanocapsules were incorporated into the xanthan gum gel base. It was evaluated for particle size, PDI, zeta potential, drug content, in vitro release, ex vivo permeation, sunscreen efficacy and skin irritation potential by the HET CAM test.

Particle size, PDI, zeta potential, percent encapsulation, and loading of drug-loaded nanocapsule suspension were found to be 237.1 nm, 0.189 + 58.4 mV, 852 ± 0.5%, and 19.45 ± 0.94%, respectively. DSC results indicate the suitability of selected excipients. In vitro release studies indicated 68.99% oxybenzone release from NC suspension, while NC gel showed 58.87% at the end of 24 hrs. Ex vivo permeation results showed significantly higher drug permeation from plain oxybenzone gel than NC gel. Permeation flux and reduction ratio suggest a three-fold reduction in skin permeation by NC gel. The gel offered medium-level sun protection with an SPF value of 22.12. According to the HET CAM study, there was no evidence of skin irritation caused by NC gel.

It is concluded that the encapsulation of oxybenzone prevents direct interaction with the skin, reducing the chances of skin irritation and penetration. Results suggest that nanocapsules in gel bases can provide a promising formula for safer topical delivery of sunscreen.